The physical feature that people notice most about cats is the eyes. It so important to inspect them on a regular basis. It's good to know that most of the time infections can be prevented. Below are a few things you can do prevent eye infections in cats.
Look out for mucous buildup
Mucous can build up and turn into an eye infection. Once a day your cars eyes should be gently wiped with a damp cloth. This should also be done any time you notice mucous around the eyes.
Eye protection
Anytime a chemical treatment is used on your cat's skin the eyes should be protected. One of the most common treatments includes flea dips. Your veterinarian will should be able to give you a neutralizing ointment that should be applied to your cats eyes before treatment.
Cat hair
Anything that comes into contract to your cat's eyes can cause irritation. This includes his own hair. Make sure you keep your cat's hair trimmed to a reasonable length to avoid unnecessary irritation.
General eye cleaning
Your cat's eyes should be cleaned at least once a week. You can make your own eye cleaning solution by mixing 1 cap of baby shampoo with 20 caps of water. Use either a cotton ball or Q-tip to apply the solution. Your cat will not enjoy this, but in the long run it's necessary.
What to do in case of an eye infection
Eye infections happen. Sometimes there's nothing you can do. If this happens to you, take your cat to the vet right away. He'll likely prescribe medicated eye drops that can be used to clear up the infection.
The cats use their claws for scratching for a variety of reason. They may be scratching objects for communication or marking territory. The cats show the tendency to scratch in the same area for a period of time. Scratching of cats have nothing unusual to it and is quite natural. Scratching also has some benefits for the cat; it helps to keep the nails healthy and removes the old layers of nail present on the nails of the cat.
The suitable method to stop cat scratching is providing a scratching post and teaching him how to use it. Scratching is instinctive to cats and is difficult to stop it completely. But providing a scratching post makes it possible to provide satisfaction for the cat as well as will not damage any valuable items in the house. Scratching valuable items like furniture or carpets in the house is that causes frustration to the cat. If the cat is directed to scratching this unacceptable scratching stops. The aim of the owner must not be stopping scratching but to stop scratching on everything that the cat see around.
There is certain taste in scratching for the cat. Some cats like to scratch in soft things while some prefers hard items. Some cats need to scratch on things of certain type at certain type. So the likes of the cat must be considered before designing the scratching post. The post must be chosen such a way that it will not get damaged after some scratching. Scratching posts made of wood will not get damaged quite easily and most cats like scratching it.
The scratch post must have the enough for the cat to stretch out fully when using it. This will give an opportunity exercise the muscles of the cat. The cat should be made aware that the post is only place that it should scratch.
If you have recently got a pet cat, you may not be aware of certain facts pertaining to its health insurance. As a matter of fact, it is also probable that you may possess a cat for many years yet you are not well equipped with all the facts pertaining to its health insurance.
Ever since the inception of internet, we have got access to much information which we could not get very easily earlier. You can know as much as you feel like via internet regarding your cat's heath insurance and its pros and cons. It is absolutely imperative for you to get a health insurance for your cat as you never know when any disease or accident might hit it. However, there are certain things that people overlook or do not bother to look into when getting a Cat's health insurance. You must not ignore these facts because if you don you may suffer in the long run.
While choosing a plan, you need to take into account several factors. These include your monetary circumstances, your living environment, if you have other pets as well; the heath and age of your cat and which veterinary service you are dealing with etc.
The insurance policies are of various kinds. You need to evaluate many of them to finally opt for the one of your choice. You must not be blinded by some flowery information on the net that you ought to get the most expensive health insurance for your cat. You must make sure that the plan you opt for must cover annual checkups, shots and vaccines, and other annual safeguarding requirements. Cat health insurance varies on the age or medical condition of your cat. Since your cat is like a member of your own family, you must be vigilant about its health issues and not take any risk. Health insurance also covers accidental cases. What you must ensure is that whichever policy you may opt for, it should meet your requirements. For this, you must do through homework before selecting any policy for your kitty.
Are you frustrated with the smell your cat's urine throughout the house? Don't get mad at kitty. Cats are very sensitive to numerous stresses, and there could be medical causes such as Urinary Tract Infection (UTI) or Feline Lower Urinary Tract Disease (FLUTD). The symptoms of UTI or FLUTD are difficulty urinating, bloody urine, discomfort, and can also include urinating in places other than the litter box. If the cat is showing signs of discomfort or has blood in the urine take kitty to the vet.
If there are no other physical signs of illness, the following could be causes of a cat urinating in house. The following is a list of stresses for a cat but there can be many more.
• Other cats (inside or out)
• Litter box aversion
• Owner is gone
• New child or pet
• Owner was absent for a lengthy period (vacation, trip, work)
• New house
• New furniture added or moved
Litter box aversion can create urination problems for cat urinating in house because;
• The box is in a noisy area
• Does the cat associate the box with something negative?
• The actual litter material may not be to kitty's liking, try another. This often happens if the cat has been declawed as they don't like the way the litter feels on their foot pads.
• Is another pet bothering the cat while she is using the litter box?
• They may not like the smell if not changed often. Cats are very clean. My cat tries to cover an accident on the tile floor even though no litter is near.
• Is the litter box shared by more than one cat?
• Did you change litter brands? Cats do not like change much.
• Do you have a covered or open box? Try switching
• Is the cat neutered?
Try correcting any of these suggestions and if you are still asking "Why is my cat urinating in house" you may want to try an anxiety medicine or consult your vet for other options.
Why does my cat look at me like that, its a evil stare. Perhaps he is working out which bit to eat first!
Does he have a second family, who only look after him from 9pm - 7am! I might even get one of those cameras you can attach to cats, record his movements.
The dog even seems confused by the cats behaviour, does not even get excited when I put my walking shoes on! Does the cat not appreciate how much fun the dog has running around in circles, slipping on the wooden floor in a frenzied dash for the door.
Even simply walking across the floor has to be completed in an arrogant manner, tail up high and walking with attitude any self-respecting rapper would be proud of! Come to think of it, what music does the cat prefer, I know the dog has a liking for Status Quo!
So having watched a couple of Cat programs, it is time to communicate with this pet with attitude, I will show it who the alpha male around here is! First, apparently if you look your cat in the eye and slowly close and open your eyes, it is a sign of friendliness! Ok, the cat is definitely looking at me with a view to eating me!
Next, I try the rubbing of heads, which is another sign of greeting! The cat must of been watching Rocky 4, I never saw that left hook coming! I am sure the dog is laughing as well!
My final attempt at training the cat, put it on a lead and train it to walk by my side. This I have seen done, if the old girl down the road can train her pet cat to do it, then I am sure this fully qualified instructor of people can achieve it. The cat has definitely been watching Rocky, that was some combination!
I have not finished with you Tiddles! A quick bit of research reveals a book on "Understanding, Caring for & Training Your Cat"
The book deals with:
What Breed is best for you
What you should know before buying a cat
How to select a Cat Breeder
Discover how cats behave
How to create a healthy environment for your cat
Common cat diseases and health problems
Selecting the right cat litter
Grooming your cat
Selecting cat toys
Training your cat to walk (This was what I am looking for!)
Diet
Training tips
It was a comprehensive list, covering the areas I needed and some I should of read before letting Tiddles into the family home! It certainly would of saved a few quid down the vets, if I had read this book first.
The book was easy to read and understand, dealing with a lot of questions I needed answers for and some I had not even thought about.
Following the advice in the book, the cat is definitely beginning to understand me a lot easier! You never know it might even let me stay!
That's the cat sorted, now I wonder if there is a book on "Understanding,Caring For and Training Your missus"?
If you are cat owners, you may have to encounter emergency situations pertaining to your kitty. Your cat may fall ill anytime unexpectedly or meet an accident which would require you to act as her vet and treat her on urgent basis. In such emergency situations, mostly, you do not have the time to get across your vet.
For this reason, every cat owner needs to have the basic first aid knowledge and know-how to manage such situations. It is absolutely imperative to equip yourself with this knowledge because sometimes it may prove deadly for your cat if she is left untreated in emergencies. Here are some of the common emergency issues and their treatment.
Your kitty may break its bone while climbing, jumping or in a road accident. It is not recommend setting the broken bone yourself. All you need to do in this situation is to stop the bleeding if any with ice or cold water and take her to the vet for proper treatment.
Choking is also common issue amongst cats. If your cat gets choked, open her mouth gently and see if you can see the object. You must remember not to tilt her head backwards. You can remove the object if it is visible with the help of a tweezer or your own fingers. Make sure you do not push the object as it will aggravate the situation all the more. You should hold her upside down and press on her chest using your hands. In case you are able to remove the object, it is still advisable to take her to the vet to be on the safe side.
Getting an electric shock is also a serious issue. Some kitties bite electric wires while playing with them. It may produce burns on her tongue or palate of her mouth. It may cause breathing problem or pain in her mouth. You must remember that you should not touch your cat if it touching an exposed electric wire. You need to turn of the current first and then put your cat away from it with the help of a wooden stick. Take her to the vet.
If your cat encounters eye injury and the eye is bleeding, just wipe the blood with wet cloth. You must not let your cat go on rubbing her eyes. It is also advisable to not apply any medicine without consulting the vet.
Dear My Human,
I wanted to write you because we have a very serious issue to address. This issue is my litter box. My litter box demands are not being met to my satisfaction. Please find below my requirements to be a healthy and happy cat- and if these wishes are met, I will no longer poop on the floor:
1. I need a big litter box, like, the Taj Mahal of litter boxes. It needs to be big enough so that I can move around, stretch my little cat paws as far as they can go, read a newspaper, inspect my beautiful self and so forth. Also, I require a deep litter box so that if I so choose, I can dig to the ends of the earth in search of the finest fish. But, my dear human, the box cannot be too tall so as to cause injury my fabulous physique. I would advise cutting a “cats only” entrance for me if the box is too tall. If there is more than just one fantastic feline in the home, the quantity of litter boxes must reflect this. Many a cat doctor advise that you provide one more litter box than the number of cats in the home. This would be greatly appreciated, and well… I think I deserve it!
2. I understand that you don’t like when I track my litter around the house. Well, my human, there is something you can do. A litter box mat will catch the extra litter clumps from my graceful paws! It is, in essence, a red carpet grand entrance to my commode, and que bellisimo… a functional one at that! Mats come in many different colors and patterns, so you can accommodate my high society, cultured taste. Paparazzi, cameras, and fans are optional.
3. But what, my human, is the good of a red carpeted Taj Mahal litter box if it is not smelling of flowers and sunshine?!? You must promise to keep my litter box clean as the spring breeze. I have an unprecedented sense of smell; my nose abilities are far stronger than those of your primitive nasal cavities. If you don’t enjoy the smell of my commode, then most certainly I do not. We cats are simply creatures of a higher order, who will not tolerate foul smell or unsanitary conditions. In lieu of this information, human, my litter must be of the clumping order, unscented and dust free.
4. The proper cleaning of my commode should be completed twice a day. I ask you, my human, do you enjoy performing your business in an unsightly toilet? Nay, you say? I don’t often like to point out the similarities of you human creatures and we alluring felines, but unsightly commodes are not enjoyable for either of us. Please be wary of keeping the litter box sanitary, or I will remind you in a way that is unbecoming to my cat nature. Proper cleaning supplies and attire are advisable. A litter scoop made of plastic and strong will, a filter with the power of 1,000 white oleanders, and a proper holding container, preferably with the bright, enticing colors of the earth and sun will do. In this way, you can achieve litter box cleanliness that is fit for a king or queen! (namely, me). That being said, a maid’s outfit would make this more official, so please go to your local human store and purchase some appropriate cleaning attire.
5. My human, I understand that you are busy and may not have the time to keep my Taj Mahal box in perfect condition. (Try looking as good as me every day for a week…now THAT would keep you busy) But alas! There are easier ways to fulfill my cleanliness requirements! It is possible to purchase litter box liners, which easily fit in the bottom of my box. When the time has come to clean my commode, you simply lift the whole liner and dispose with the other rubbish. Simple, yet fruitful! Another easy way is a roll and clean litter box. Sometimes, you humans are just so darn innovative! You pick up this light, attractive box which serves as my commode; flip it over, and TA DA! The unused litter goes to the bottom, the used litter and the cute little droplings I produce are filtered into a tray that can be easily removed.
6. Location, Location, Location, my human friend. Location is of much importance for my litter box. Please do not place my litter box in a room or closet where the door is often closed, (because believe me, I will find a door that is open… probably your bedroom) a place only reachable by stairs, (when I grow older into a senior cat full of wit and wisdom, it may be difficult for me to reach it) or a very open, very public space (Unlike you, human, in your simple nature, this is not because of modesty, but because of my instinctual nature to always be aware of my surroundings. It is a wild jungle out there, and I don’t want to be ambushed by an enemy when my guard is down).
7. You say you don’t want the litter box seen by your “oh so high society” human friends? It is possible to acquire a very trendy, discreet and fabulous decoration to go over my commode. In fact, it matches the rest of our furniture! How Savvy! It looks like a wooden chest, (which you can place foliage and human pictures on top of so that I can knock them over with grace and ease) and even your most cultured friends will never know that inside is my very own Taj Mahal! While they come in different styles and colors, I prefer the one in wood with that fabulous cherry color. Perfect for the most refined fancy cat.
Thank you, my human, for taking the time to read my requirements to be a healthy, happy, and “non pooping on the floor” cat. To help you implement these wishes straight away, please visit www.mythreecats.com for reliable, online, amazing service for all my cat accessories.
Cats want to do today what they did yesterday and plan to do tomorrow what they did today. Cats in particular, it seems do not want to have anything to do with change in their environment or even any type of confusion. When their normal surroundings are piled high with everything that was once in another room, they sometimes decide to spray on those things to lower their sweet little feline anxiety/anxiety levels.
Cats like to know when and were their human mom and dad are coming and going, so they can adjust their schedules accordingly. If you or your partner takes a new job with late night hours, or work real early in the morning, this can drastically change your household routine and lifestyle and your cat may develop feline anxiety/stress because of it.
Feline anxiety and stress seems to be worse in indoor cats, presumably as a result of their smaller living space. In single cat households, the presence of neighbor’s cats in built up areas may act as a stress factor. Cat Toys will teach you how to take care of your cat’s exercise needs which is important for many reasons including relieving stress.
When the feline anxiety and stress level continually increases, at some point there will be a behavioral response from that cat. Once the cat has shown a behavioral response, the stress response starts to decline. Stress responses occur in response to both 'good' and 'bad' changes in the cat's environment. As a cat owner, you should know that urine marking (as one possible behavioral response) is highly motivated and that this is just a normal behavior that can be brought on by feline anxiety and stress. It should be noted that it is not unusual for a cat to have a medical problem when the behavior history says that it is only a behavioral problem. For instance, blood tests may be necessary to determine if a medical problem, such as kidney disease, is contributing to the spraying.
Other signs of feline anxiety and stress you may see are excessive grooming or biting at the tail or back. Control is best achieved by decreasing the motivation to perform the behavior. The cat environment of today has been changed considerably over the many years since they have been domesticated and they have adapted by changing a great deal of their instinctive behavior. It should be noted that wild cats avoid humans totally, and that true wild cats cannot be tamed just by raising them in a human household.
There are many causes of feline anxiety and stress and it varies from cat to cat. If you observe your cat closely and try to keep changes in their life and surroundings to a minimum, there should not be a problem.
NOTE: This article is for information only. See your veterinarian for medical advice.
Because of their mysterious nature, many myths and old wives' tales circulate about cats. Here are a few of the more common ones and the facts behind the fiction.
Myth 1: A spayed or neutered cat will become fat and lazy. Not true! A cat's weight gain is not related to his or her reproductive status. Any cat who does not get the proper amount of exercise or who is overfed will become overweight and sluggish. Spaying or neutering is beneficial to your pet. Cats and kittens that have been spayed or neutered live longer, do not stray from home and become more affectionate.
Myth 2: My female cat must have a litter of kittens before she is spayed, otherwise, she will become unfriendly. False! Females who are spayed before they have kittens do not miss being mothers. In fact, some cats are not good mothers and may resent their kittens. One cat and her offspring can produce approximately 420,000 cats in seven years. With millions of unwanted kittens and cats euthanized in animal shelters each year, there is no reason to add to the pet overpopulation problem.
Myth 3: Cats belong outside. Indoor cats suffer or become bored if they are never allowed to go outside to hunt and explore. Not true! Indoor only cats thrive in the home. Given the proper amount of attention and affection, your cat will not miss being outside. Cats and kittens can learn to walk on leashes to safely experience the outdoors, and most are content to observe nature from a window. Cats who are allowed to roan outside do not live as long as indoor cats because they are subject to many hazards, such as traffic, diseases, and toxic poisons.
Myth 4: Cats always land on their feet when they fall. This myth is partially true. Cats have excellent reflexes and can right themselves quickly. They have a flexible backbone, and as mentioned earlier, can rotate half of their spine 180 degrees. This trait, combined with a fluid filled chamber in the ears, helps a cat to right himself if he falls. If a cat falls one or two stories, he usually will right himself and may only receive mild injuries. However, falling from three to six floors is usually fatal because the velocity from this distance is too great, although some cats have survived a seven or eight floor drop. In this circumstance, the extra time involved in the fall allows the cat to right himself, spread out his feet, and relax, thus creating drag resistance to slow him down.
Cats and kittens come in all shapes, colors and sizes. Although approximately 100 different breeds exist, they all share the same basic body structure. Nature designed cats perfectly. Their bodies, sense organs, and natural instincts enable them to hunt and survive in the wild with no help from humans. Surprisingly the domestic cat that we know and love today is not much different from his wild "big cat" cousins, the lions and tigers. Although our house cats are much smaller in size and cannot roar, they have retained many similar physical characteristics.
Many people feel that feral cats cannot be kept indoors as pets. This is not true. In fact, feral cats are happy being kept as indoor only pets if you don't attempt to treat them exactly like tame cats.
What are Feral Cats?
Feral cats are cats that haven't been properly socialized. What this means behaviorally is that feral cats are not tame toward humans. Very often, feral cats result from the offspring of cats that were once owned and then abandoned. As a result, the kittens are not properly socialized to humans and become feral.
There is a critical period during kitten development in which kittens must be exposed to human caretakers, otherwise they will be feral or at least semi-feral. This critical developmental period is generally from birth to 8 weeks old. If the first human exposure occurs past the age of 8 weeks this usually results in a feral or semi-feral cat. Sometimes older feral kittens can be tamed toward one or two human caretakers.
What to do if You Find a Feral Cat or Kitten
Many well meaning cat lovers will find feral kittens and take them to their local animal shelter. Unfortunately, feral kittens aren't very adoptable and most of the time animal shelters will destroy the feral kittens to make room for tame kittens that are more likely to be adopted.
Fortunately, there are some shelters that will spay or neuter the kittens and then return the kittens to their natural environment. This at least gives the feral cat a chance to live without the ability of producing more feral cats. This program is called Trap-Neuter-Return, and it is being implemented in many areas to control the outdoor cat population without having to kill the cats. It generally works like this: The kittens are caught in a humane trap, such as Havahart live animal traps. The animal is unharmed. Then the cat is taken to the vet or the shelter that participates in Trap-Neuter-Return and the animal is spayed or neutered and is usually given some vaccines. When the cat has recovered from the spay or neuter surgery the cat is returned outdoors in the same location where it was found. Trap-Neuter-Return is a much more humane way of dealing with feral cats and kittens than euthanasia.
Feral Kittens Can Also Make Very Rewarding Pets
Some people who find feral kittens take them into their homes as pets. This can be a very rewarding experience as you gain the trust of these special cats. It is also the best option for the well-being of the feral cat or kitten. Taking them into your home as a pet is even better than Trap-Neuter-Return programs. Taking them in as pets generally works best if you catch them when they are relatively young. The younger the better, although some people have taken older feral cats into their homes as pets and they have been fine.
It is also best to take in two feral kittens or cats from the same litter if possible. If this isn't possible it is best to have at least one other cat in the household because feral kittens and cats really enjoy the company of other cats.
Feral cats need to be kept as indoor only cats. Cats sometimes behave differently once they get outside. Because feral kittens and cats don't trust humans very much they may be fearful of approaching your house once they are outside and they may get lost. In general, they are very fearful of any humans other than the human caretakers that they have grown to trust.
I have four feral cats that have lived with me for about 2 years now and they have been very happy indoors. Three were caught when they were 10 weeks old and the fourth cat was caught when she was 12 weeks old.
For the first few weeks after I brought them in the house, all of the kittens used to hiss when I walked by them. Eventually they came to trust me and stopped hissing when they saw me. In fact, now they greet me at the door after work. When I wake up in the morning they come up on the bed to greet me the very first thing. They love playing with toys and with each other. They are still semi-feral, but there is nothing more rewarding than seeing how happy they are and knowing that they are indoors where it is warm and safe.
However, they aren't exactly like other cats. For the most part you can't pick them up. One of the kittens lets me pick her up and kiss her on top of her little head, but the other kittens don't allow it (Actually, they are no longer kittens, but they still seem like babies to me). However, they do like to play toys with me, and except for one of them, they do like to be petted and to have their fur brushed.
Feral cats and kittens would not make good pets for children. Basically feral cats that live indoors with humans like to do their own thing most of the time. They don't want to be held and will usually only let you pet them on a limited basis. Because of this they are likely to scratch a child that attempts to have more contact with them than the cat wants. The key to making a feral cat happy is to only have as much contact with the cat as it wants.
Also, you need to give the shy ones extra space when they are using the litter or eating. Sometimes it is best to keep their litter and food bowls in low human traffic areas so that they can feel safe while eating or using the litter box.
Vet trips can be difficult because they don't always allow you to pick them up to put them into the pet carrier. However, there are ways to do it. Sometimes you can throw their favorite toy into the carrier and they will run in to get it and then all you have to do is shut the cat carrier door.
Feral cats are well worth the extra work and they are the best pets ever! Also, because they only want limited contact with humans you generally don't have to worry about them walking on your keyboard while you are typing or laying across you newspaper or book while you are reading.
In my opinion there is nothing more rewarding then gaining the trust of these cats, especially if you don't mind taking their special needs into consideration. The reward comes in knowing that you are providing a loving, warm, happy home with plenty of food, water, toys, and veterinary care for these special cats.
Our cats become a part of the family over time. But unlike humans, who are considered elderly at 60 or 65, cats are considered "senior citizens" at the ripe old age of 10. It is important to understand the proper care of cats at all stages of life. A kitten cannot be fed, groomed, medicated, and treated the same way as an elderly cat. Here is a guide to proper Elderly Cat Care.
Feeding Time
Most pet supply stores sell specially formulated cat foods that are designed to provide proper health and nutrition to elderly cats. Some formulas assist with proper digestion, since this can often be a problem with older cats. Senior cats cannot assimilate their food in their digestive tracts in the same way that they did when they were youngsters.
Older cats can also have problems with their teeth that cause them to eat less. This is why it is important to maintain good dental hygiene in cats at a young age by either brushing, taking them to the veterinarian for a cleaning, or feeding them snacks that clean their teeth. If your elderly cat eats less, it may be due to a toothache, thus it is sometimes ideal to feed them softer foods, mostly wet, canned foods, so that chewing their dinner won't be as much of an obstacle.
Many cat owners find that their cat's coat becomes dull with age. This is due to poor nutrition. Feed your older cat a diet rich in essential fatty acids to fix this problem. When organisms, including cats, get older, they have an increased production of free radicals in the body. Free radicals contribute to the degeneration of cells in the body. Help build up the immune system of your beloved cat by increasing his or her intake of vitamin C and E.
Finally, you want your cat to remain active in old age. The more energetic activities your cat participates in the better health it will remain in. If you allow your cat to become obese it will lay around the house and have reduced quality of life, as well as a decrease in general health. Watch your pet's eating habits and assure that it is not overeating, or eating as a recreation as some cats do.
Grooming Elderly Cats
Another element of proper Elderly Cat Care is grooming. When cats age, they sometimes stop grooming themselves with the same frequency as they did when they were younger. This can create a matted fur coat that is dirty and smells bad. Bad hygiene will eventually lead to bad health. Because of this, it is important that you groom your eldery cat yourself. Purchase a good cat brush that doesn't just brush the outer coat, but one with bristles that reach down to the skin to pull up old hair.
It sometimes helps to give your cat a bath, even though most cats hate them with a passion. The best way to wash a cat is to place them in the tub and gradually introduce water. You certainly don't want to throw them into the tub with hot water running inside! You may get a deep claw mark in the arm that will never heal and remind you to never do that again. If you apply water gradually to the cat's coat until they are completely wet and then work in some shampoo quickly, you should be able to accomplish that goal.
Vet Visits and Medication
When your cat grows into old age, it may have health complications that require regular medication. You should schedule a regular vet appointment for your elderly cat to assure that you are keeping up with all details of its health regimen. In older age, cats may seem fine but still have complications. Ask your veterinarian to give your cat a blood and urine test to find out if there is anything to be concerned about to head off any future problems. Going back to dental care, most older cats develop gum disease which can lead to health problems down the line. Gum disease can be treated by your veterinarian.
Just as with a human who has to take daily medication, if your cat has been prescribed to take medications on a daily basis it is helpful to keep everything in one place as a reminder. You do not want to miss a day of any crucial medication as the system of your older cat is much more delicate than those of younger cats.
Pet Insurance
Insurance companies are coming to recognize the love that people have for their pets. Thus, there are many new pet insurance products popping up on the market. It is best to enroll your pet into an insurance program at a younger age to assure a more reasonable premium, but you may still be able to enroll your elderly cat into an insurance program where his or medical bills will be partly covered in the case of a medical emergency. Some pet insurance companies will charge anywhere from $20-$50 per month per cat, depending on their particular situation.
The costs of pet surgeries and treatments can be way out of the budget of most households, so having a pet insurance plan to back you up can be a great asset. It will also give you peace of mind about your cat as it ages.
Activities of the Elderly Cat
The activity level of elderly cats vary. Some cats become inactive and spend most of their day sleeping or sitting. But other cats can be just as active in old age as they were in their younger days. These cats may still like to play with you, run, and chase the other cats around the house, but you just need to be understanding that they may not be able to participate in these games for as long as they used to. For example, a game cats love to play is "chase their owner." Instead of letting them chase you up and down the stairs as you did when they were young, maybe you could keep the activity to one level of the house. That way you will not overexert your cat and help prolong his time spent active.
Most cat experts agree tht a cat is generally healthy and happy when they are "bright-eyed and bushy-tailed." Another indication of a healthy cat is a lustrous, shiny coat, and a tail that sticks straight up in the air when the cat is walking. Proper elderly cat care is dire if you love your senior cat and want to keep it in good physical health.
If you have a cat - or more than one cat - then you're in the market for some quick and easy training tips. The following tips . . . tricks . . . and techniques cover a variety of situations that most cat owners encounter.
The key to effective training is consistency. Whatever you choose, be sure to do it on regularly, otherwise, you'll be sending your cat mixed signals. And that will only make it that much harder to train her. Forget about cat training in 10 minutes!
Below are ten "must have" tips that will get you through your initial phase cat ownership.
1. Cats really don't care that you punish them. It's true. If you've owned a dog, you know that punishing him will help change his behavior. It doesn't with cats. Bottom line. Don't waste your time. They'll sit there purring at you and just perform that same behavior again.
2. Corporal punishment is out of the question. Because a cat's body is so delicate, you can't "spank" a cat the way you do a dog to get its attention. That means when you're training your cat, you have to match wits with it. Don't worry. I'm confident you'll win. There are things out there like cat clicker training, but I don't recommend it.
3. Use a form of positive reinforcement. As you become a seasoned cat owner, you'll discover that it's difficult to catch your cat in the actual "crime". It's far easier, then, to reward your cat when you see her performing a right behavior. Keep some cat "treats" on hand. Feed one to your cat whenever she is doing something positive - like using the litter box or using her scratching post.
4. Keep plenty of toys - either store bought or make shift - around the house. Much of the "bad" behavior of cats is simply because they're board. The feline is by nature a predatory animal. Remember the scene in the Disney movie, The Lion King, where little Simba gets "pouncing lessons." When you think your cat is literally bouncing off the walls and tearing down the curtains, he's only practicing his predatory skills. Provide him with alternatives and he'll tame down - at least some.
5. When you're away, keep him busy. If your cat is used to company, he may get bored and inadvertently destruction while you're at work or are gone for any length of time. Here's a quick hint. Buy a timer for your television set, make sure the TV is tuned to an animal-friendly channel (an outdoor channel or Animal Planet for instance) and then have the television automatically turn on at different times of the day. Cats can see images on the screen. He'll come to investigate the noise and stay to watch the picture - at least for a while.
6. The value of a spray bottle of water. In some instances, spraying a cat with a harmless water bottle is enough to get their attention and stop the bad behavior. You only need a simple spray bottle that you use for misting plants. Squirt the cat if it misbehaves. Soon, he'll know that he can't do that.
7. Blow a harmless puff of air in your cat's face. Yes, this sounds crazy, but it really works. If your cat is literally in your face and you need to teach him to keep a certain distance and give you some space, try it. Blow a puff of air into his face. It'll startle and puzzle him. Soon, he'll associate the two and you won't be bothered by the unpleasant attention he gives you.
8. Make sure you cat has "a room with a view". You know what they say, "curiosity killed the cat." More appropriately, an irate owner went berserk over something a bored cat got into. Much of the bad behavior of your cat is simply due to his innate curiosity. Make sure he has a ledge or window sill that he can sit in comfortably to check out the birds and squirrels in your yard. If your window sill isn't large enough for him to sit for extended periods, you can by an extension at the pet store. Or, if someone you know is handy, you can make your own.
9. Spend quality time with your cat. As a training technique, this may sound a bit unorthodox. But, it's really a savvy move on your part. The more time you spend with your kitty, the better you'll be able to communicate with her. Cats definitely have a form of communication skills that involves more than just "talking." The better you know your cat - and just as importantly, the better your cat knows you - you'll be able "to read her mind". You'll just "know" when she's considering an improper move. And she'll know when you disapprove just by reading your body language and the look on your face.
10. Confine the aggressive cat. Reward the victim. Got more than one cat? Then you probably have that occasional "cat fight." Felines are territorial animals. They will get into a fight now and then over their "catdom." If you view the fight, your first step is to disengage the action. Using a water sprayer is the best method. Squirt the aggressor. Try to avoid squirting the victim. After that, confine the "bully" in a less attractive space. In the meantime, reward the cat who didn't attack - even when she was being attacked. Give her a treat and let her free roam the house. When you do put this pair of felines together again, try to keep them as supervised as possible.
These ideas are only the tip of the iceberg when you're training your cat. As you and your pet begin to know each better, you'll discover a language of your own. It may be through speech - you talk and she meows. But more than likely, the two of you will eventually be able to read each other's body language. You'll soon learn the subtle nuances of this very effective form of communication . . . and teaching your cat what she needs to know will be easier than you can ever imagine.
Bet you would like to know what your cat is trying to tell you?
You might not, if you haven't been around felines a lot.
Of course, cats meow. And the type of meow they use gives you a good idea of what they're trying to communicate with you. This is especially true if your pet is a Siamese cat. This type of cat is very vocal. One Siamese owner had a cat that meowed loudly - and persistently - whenever it wanted to play a game of hide and seek. Every time the cat used his "special meow", which the owner recognized, she knew that he was "hiding" and needed to be "found." She dutifully played.
In fact, Siamese cats have a voice that's often mistaken for a human voice. When a Siamese cat in heat, he sounds very human-like. Don't be surprised if your cat almost seems to be saying "hello." It's eerie to hear in the middle of the night. Many individuals also think that the meow of a Siamese cat is similar to a human baby crying.
But all cats use their voices at one time or another. And there are a variety of ways in which the voice of a cat indicates what the feline is trying to convey through "cat chat". The differences in pitch, intensity, frequency and even the pace and cadence of the cat's voice all leave clues about his feelings. The quicker the meows, for example, the more anxious or even frightened your pet may be. The slower the sounds, the more confident and relaxed he is. In addition to the occasional meow, cats more than likely will talk to you through a variety of other behaviors.
A favorite method of communicating is the cat's purr, which is unique to the feline species. You may already know that a cat purrs when he's content. Animal behaviorists now believe that they also purr when they are in the mood to be sociable.
However, if you pay close attention to your cat, you'll notice that he also purrs when he's nervous, feeling a little uneasy or even if he's in great pain. Some experts think it's a feline form of "meditation" and that this action comforts them. If this theory is at all correct, the "purring" sound of the feline is the equivalent of our "Ohm" when we meditate.
When your cat trusts you enough, she'll eventually roll over on her back, exposing her stomach. This, in cat behavior, is the ultimate form of submission. You should be impressed. It does not necessarily mean though that he wants his tummy rubbed. So be careful how you try this. To discover your cat's true feelings, watch how he holds his tail. The way in which he switches his tail is also a subtle form of communication. Cats are not dogs. When a dog wags his tail, he's a happy animal. You can tell if a cat is annoyed because its tail is flicking rapidly back and forth - the equivalent of a wag . . . or the least confused.
You probably are already aware that a "puffed up" tail indicates fear. You'll recognize this signal as soon as you see it. Your pet's tail will be at least twice the size it normally is. Could mean that he's been fighting with another cat, or he's just encountered something unexpected that startled him. A cat who is feeling "good about himself" will hold his tail high. A tail held a little lower indicates that he is feeling relaxed and relatively content. Cats possess something called a "third eyelid." This is a layer of skin that you can sometimes see that surrounds the cat's eyes. If you can see this, then you cat is either ill or extremely content and sleepy. The eyelid shows especially if you cat is running a fever.
You'll be able to tell if your feline friend is ill by other behavior. She won't be acting her normal self. If this lasts for more than several days, take your pet to the veterinarian if at all possible. Cats are very good at trying to disguise their true feelings. They may try to hide the fact that they are ill. Why? Because when their ancestors were out in the wild, many thousands of years ago, an ill cat did not live very long. So, cats try to keep a "stiff upper lip", as it were, in order to be able to survive as long as possible.
Your cat's third eyelid may be showing on the other hand because he's very content and near the point of sleeping. Again, by paying some attention to his other body language, you'll be able to read the signals.
Does your cat "head-butt" you? That's the cat's standard affectionate greeting. Try "head-butting" him back. Seriously. Not very hard of course. You'll discover that he really enjoys this. You'll also soon discover that you've got a bond forming with this feline.
Another form of an affectionate greeting is "the lick." Hard to believe, isn't it? But from the very moment he was born, his mother licked him. In his mind it's associated with love. In fact, this is the only way his mother had to clean him. When your cat takes that sandpaper-rough tongue and licks your skin, fight the first impulse to jerk your body part away. You really don't want to hurt his feelings, now do you?
Make no mistake about it. Cats are smart creatures. Some animal behaviorists even theorize that some cats possess the intelligence of a two-year-old human. So just be patient - and pay attention. Soon you and your cat will have your own subtle form of communication. And it'll be most enjoyable and satisfying.
You've brought your kitten home. You've got her set up with all her needs. Now, you're faced with some of the more puzzling aspects of cat care. You're wondering about declawing. And that's just for starters. Not to worry.
First and foremost, realize that the first step to successful cat ownership is to love your cat. Filling in the blanks on the information you don't know yet will come. And here's some information and knowledge to get you started. Of course homeopathic care for cat is something that is all over the news right now, but there's actually a lot more to know then that.
Yes, cats shed. And the shedding of a long-haired cat is more noticeable than that of a short haired feline. Expect your cat only to shed at the change of the seasons. That's not so. Because of his exposure to a constant temperature and continual artificial light, your indoor cat sheds year round. But it's not nearly as bad as it sounds.
Here's a good piece of important cat care information, cats take care of a lot of their shedding on their own. They are fastidiously clean animals. You'll discover they are constantly cleaning themselves with their rough, sandpaper-like tongues. The very mechanism, though, that helps them to control shedding also contributes to one of their health problems, hairballs. Hairballs are a very real threat to your cat's digestion. They can block the food that's already been digested from traveling through his intestines.
So how can you tell when your cat is experiencing hairballs? You'll be able to recognize them if he coughs them up - as cats are prone to do. If you find cigar-shaped masses of some indistinguishable matter on the floor or on your furniture, you've discovered a hairball.
Sometimes, though, a cat will expel them along with his feces in the litter box. If you find that your cat's bowel movements have hair on them, that means he's got hairballs. Another symptom your feline may exhibit is dry coughing or a hacking. This will especially occur after he's eaten. In fact, if your cat has a sudden, unexpected loss of appetite, you may suspect a hairball is at the root cause.
So how do you prevent hairballs? Take matters in your own hands, literally! Brush! Brush! Brush! Groom you kitty often. Most cats find it most enjoyable and it builds a marvelous bond between you and your feline.
If you discover that your kitten may need more aid than this, there are many effective hairball remedies on the market today. They come in a variety of forms, from granules you sprinkle inconspicuously on his food to gels.
Thinking about declawing?
If you haven't heard, declawing your cat so he doesn't ruin your furniture or accidentally seriously scratch an individual is controversial. A generation ago, this operation was routine, many times performed at the same time the kitten got spayed or neutered.
The public today, though, is more widely educated on exactly what surgery for declawing entails. It's not just a matter of pulling the claws out of the kitty. To remove a cat's claws, a veterinarian must actually amputate the cat's paws at the first joint. This would be the equivalent you getting your knuckles amputated right below your finger nails. Ouch!
In order to perform the surgery, your veterinarian will anesthetized your cat as well as give him pain medication. He will literally cut the first section of your cat's paw off, since the claws are intricately intertwined in the first "knuckle."
Following the surgery, your cat's paws are carefully bandaged. Your cat will undoubtedly spend the night at the animal hospital. The following day you'll be able to bring her home.
Be prepared! Your cat - understandably - will be distinctly uncomfortable for several days following the surgery. (Actually, she'll probably be in great pain. But felines are wonderful actors. Cats hate to show that they're in any type of pain.)
Considering, though, the extent of the surgery, your cat heals quite quickly. You'll notice that your pet walks around the house rather gingerly. That'll last for about a week. After that she'll back to her old self.
To help prevent infection, you should replace her litter with some shredded paper. This avoids getting granules of litter in his already very tender paws.
Declawing your cat does more than just eliminate the problem of scratching. Her claws -and that portion of the toes that are removed, are valuable to her in another vital way. Removing her claws may throw her entire system of natural balance off.
A cat, you see, is classified as a "digitigrade." It's a strange label, but essentially it means that she walks on her toes. But, a cats toes are used for so much more! Her entire balance and form are based on the length of her digits. Nature, it seems, designed the cat's body - including her back, shoulders, paws, leg joints, ligaments, muscles, tendons and even her nerves! - based on walking on her toes. Because of this, her weight is distributed across its toes as it walks, runs and climbs.
That means a cat's claws are absolutely essential for her balance as well as for her ability to exercise effectively. Not only that, her toes - and especially her claws are vital aspects of her stretching. Notice when your cat scratches at a post (or, yes, your furniture!). We all assume she's just sharpening her claws. Not so! She is really stretching her entire body. When you declaw your kitten, it throws her entire body alignment off.
Hairballs and declawing. Not usually subjects that come up in everyday conversations, now are they? But these are only two of the important bits of information that every cat owner needs to know in order to give Fluffy the best of care. That, and your love, will help your kitten live a long and healthy life.
There are some nasty smells in the world and topping the list would have to be cat urine odor. Really I don't think there's much worse than visiting a friend and not being able to enter their house for the foul smell of cat urine, the odor meets you at the door and hits you hard. The stench is in the carpet, the furniture, it’s in the curtains, and it’s up your nose. Someone should really tell this person how to remove cat urine odor.
Cats are creatures of habit. When they find a place to urinate they will return to that same place and continue to urinate there – the fact that it may be your carpet, furniture or curtains really has no relevance to your cat at all. Once your cat finds a place to urinate it is drawn by the smell of its own urine back to that same spot time and again. Cats like the smell of their own urine, they have marked their territory and they’re happy with that.
To stop your cat urinating in the same place you need to remove the smell of cat urine completely, not mask or hide the smell, as it will just come back and so will your cat. It really is simple once you know how and which products to use and more importantly which products not to use. You may think you need a professional remedy for cat urine – but you don’t! You don’t need a cupboard full of cat urine cleaners either. You just need a tried and tested cat urine cleaner
So let’s learn how to get rid of the smell of cat urine.
First We Should Understand the Problem…
• Cats are not big drinkers so the urine is concentrated and very potent and gives the strong cat urine odor.
• Cat urine is made up of several different bacteria strains.
• Urea and Urochrome cause the stains, which can sometimes be invisible.
• Uric acid salts cause the odor by bonding to surfaces.
• Cat urine dries on the carpet and the uric acid forms crystals in the underlay padding. The Crystals are the source of that strong ammonia smelling odor and are also the reason puss returns to that “special place”.
• Cat urine crystals are the hardest part to remove.
• Most household cat urine removers contain ammonia so they are going to make the problem worse not better, your cat will be even more attracted to that same spot to urinate as puss thinks it smells wonderful.
• We need to use a cleaner that will break down the crystals so we can get rid of the cat urine odor.
• Water only spreads the stain and will reactivate the uric acid crystals, reviving old stains and smells.
• Normal cleaners, if they don’t soak the area with ammonia, will mask the odor of cat urine for a short time, but it always returns and so will your cat!
• We need to remove both the stain AND the odor.
How to Clean Cat Urine…
• Soak up the excess cat urine from the area as soon as possible.
• Use a dry cloth or paper towel (I like to use old towels as they are absorbent by nature) – do not wet the area or the urine will spread.
• Blot the area - don’t scrub the carpet – it’s kind of like when you get an ink stain on your clothes, and you scrub it. Does the ink come out or does it spread? Cat urine works the same way in your carpet as the ink. (By the way to get ink out, don’t wet the area or it will set the ink – instead soak it in a bowl of milk – yes I said MILK - and then scrub from the outside of the stain in towards the center, a nail brush is good for this! I just thought I would throw in that tip for you – it comes in very handy when you have kids.)
• Hold the cloth or paper towel over the spot for a while – I find standing on an old towel will absorb a good amount of the cat’s urine quite well.
• Let your cleaning solution soak into the area, again use a dry towel, put it over the urine stain and put some weight on the towel. Put something heavy over the towel and leave it overnight.
• The main objective here is to be eliminating cat urine stains permanently so your cat won’t be tempted back to this spot again.
• You really need to keep your cat away from this area until all trace of the urine odor has gone.
• If your cat keeps going back place some foil over the patch until the smell of the urine has gone.
• You may need to repeat this process until all trace of the urine odor and stains have gone.
What not to use. These are not effective Cat Urine Cleaners…
• Ammonia Might - remove the stains, but it smells too much like cat urine so puss will just keep coming back to the same spot to urinate again and again.
• Water -If used by itself can spread the urine and makes the problem area so much bigger
• Citrus based products - Only masks the smell – doesn’t get rid of it permanently
• Liquid soap - Just doesn’t work – at all
• Bleach - Which smells worse – bleach or cat urine – I think it’s a draw! Plus bleach tends to fade carpet, furniture and curtains
• Carpet shampooing - Only cleans the surface, wont soak down into the underlay padding where the urine crystals are
• Hydrogen peroxide - Only removes the urine odor temporarily – the smell soon returns
• Oxygenated products - Only works on the surface, doesn’t remove the smell from deep down and can cause fading or discoloration in your carpet, furniture and curtains
What to use. How to Choose a Cat Urine Remover…
There are many cat urine cleaners on the market. You’ve probably tried some of them while trying to find how to clean cat urine, and possibly found they don’t work. Why?
The bacterium in cat urine can be very hard to kill, and until you kill the bacterium you won’t be removing an odor. You need an enzymes to remove cat urine. Get rid of the bacteria and you’re one step closer to getting rid of cat urine smell.
There is no big secret on how to select a cat urine remover. You need natural cat urine cleaners. Using a combination of products found in your home. Once you use an all natural cat urine remover, you’ll wonder why didn’t try it sooner.
A cat is a small felid mammal that has been domesticated for several years. The word cat most usually means a domestic or house cat, even though people used to refer this as member of a feline family. For instance, people often refer tigers, lions, and jaguars as the large cats.
Domestic cats hailed from the inherited wild species such as Felis silvestris, the African and European wild cat. In recent times, people consider a domestic cat as a separate species and call Felis Catus.
While looking at the appearance of domestic cats, they are same as their wild relatives. Even many behaviors such as hunting down and other routine activities remain to be as same as their inherited form. The first ever domestication of cats took place in Egypt.
In 4000 BC, the Ancient Egyptians domesticated cats to protect their grain stores from rats and mice. They considered cats as goddess Bast's avatars. If any person killed cats, he/she would be given death penalty. At times, when domestic cats died, individuals arranged for mummification as similar to human.
Nonetheless, by 500 BC, the Greeks started to domesticate cats and spread this practice throughout the world. Recently, domestication of cats is very popular all over the world, mostly by the colonist from Europe.
Varieties of Domesticated Cat:
There are several names to domesticated cats, each with unique features and legacy. However, because of some common interbreeding in colonized regions, several cats are merely recognized as family members of homogenous varieties of domestic shorthair and domestic longhair, depending on their hair types.
Tortoiseshell (UK) or Calico (USA) cats have various colors. Bicolor cats are partially white. A tabby cat features stripe around its skin. A male domestic cat is a tomcat and similarly a female domestic cat is a queen.
A young domestic cat is a kitten. A domestic cat whose heritage is officially registered is a pedigreed cat or purebred cat or a show cat. The breeders and owners of these domestic cats contend against one another to see who breeds well.
Less than 1% of the entire domestic cats are purebred cats and the rest 99% have varied ancestry, known as moggies or more often domestic shorthairs and domestic longhairs.
Common Domesticated Cats:
Domestic shorthaired cats and domestic longhaired cats are the two major kinds of domesticated cats, which are popular all over the world in recent years.
Domestic shorthaired cats do not represent a renowned cat variety or feature a pedigree, instead they are popular for their wide array of colors around their body. This could be of any color or a mixture of various colors.
Domestic longhaired cats come with moderate or long hair. Their standard colors include tortie and tabby and/or are bi-colored. These cats are excellent family pets, especially for people who are ready to give their hair the additional care it requires.
However, with a little research work, people can ensure themselves to determine the right type of domestic cats for their own needs.
pay or Neuter a New Cat
Millions of cats are euthanized each year in shelters due to the overcrowding of animals. Cats can easily have over 10 kittens in a given pregnancy leaving owners with problem of trying to find homes for these kittens. There is an easy remedy to this problem and that is spaying or neutering your cat. Not only is this the responsible thing to do but it is better for your cat. If unspayed female are more at risk of developing the following conditions: breast cancer, pyometra, tumors of the uterus & ovaries. While unneutered male cats run a risk of developing testicular cancer.
The Price of having a cat
When people see a cute kitten they immediately decide to adopt it. Once home they realize they have made a mistake. They are not prepared for the responsibility of a cat, not all members of the family are happy to have a cat, resident pets don't adapt well to the new addition or it just doesn't fit into your lifestyle. The costs of pet ownership can be quite high. Licenses, training classes, spaying and neutering, veterinary care, vaccinations, grooming, toys, food, kitty litter, and other expenses add up quickly.
Checking the health of your new cat
When a household decides to adopt a cat, be it from the shelter or a breeder a great deal of time should go into selecting the right animal. Have questions about where the pet came from, how they have interacted with the staff, do the pet have a behavior issue, etc. If you are buying from a breeder, ensure they are registered with an appropriate cat council. When visiting the cattery check out the overall health of the animals. Always have everything in writing, including the final cost of the cat, health guarantees etc.
Buying purebreds from pet shops or backyard breeders
If you are buying a cat from a pet shop or a backyard breeder there is probably little chance that a proper screening of genetic problems has taken place. Pet shops generally charge more for purebred kittens than a registered breeder would. Not only this, but they most likely won’t have certified paper to ensure their authenticity and health. As a result, you may be buying a cat that could have substantial medical bills in the future or even pass away suddenly.
Seek veterinary help
People don't realize the seriousness of a medical condition & fail to take appropriate action & get the cat to a vet. This may be due to the lack of knowledge they posses or funds. Cat owners should look into the cost of having pet health insurance or a special Cat Fund prepared in case of emergencies.
Flea Control Product
Unless recommended by your veterinarian, cats should be treated with a cat flea treatment only such as Frontline. Pet owners think they will save money by sharing their dog’s flea control product with their cats. This can prove fatal as cats are extremely sensitive to pyrethrins & pyrethroids which are often in dog flea products. The use of these on cats can result in death.
An appropriate diet
Cats have very specific dietary needs and as such need a balanced diet. There are many commercially available brands of cat food available which will fulfill your cat's dietary requirements. Don't attempt to feed your cat a home-made diet or other human consumed foods unless you have spent a great deal of time researching, as certain food s can do more harm than good.
Your roaming cat
Some owners feel that having your cat roam outside the home is beneficial for them. In actuality it may do more harm as free roaming cats & their lifespan is considerably shorter than that of indoor only cats, or cats with limited/supervised access outside. Outdoor cats run the risk of being highly stress by been hit by a car, attacked by another cat or dog, plus many other dangers they encounter which is very traumatizing.
Declawing VS not Declawing
Declawing has been a heated debate for many veterinarians, cat advocates, and owners alike. Some veterinarians consider declawing a "routine" surgery, while cat advocates consider it cruel, inhumane, and unnecessary in almost every case. Declawing is not for everyone and cat owners should have all the facts before making this decision.
Litter Box Maintenance
Cats will use a litter box only if it is kept clean, and if the litter is not scented or pleasant to the cat’s feet. Carefully maintaining your cat's litter box will almost guarantee that you will not be faced with litter box avoidance problems. Don’t try to over clean the box with disinfectant or bleach as cats are very sensitive to these and other chemicals. It is also recommended to have an automatic litter box to help in reducing the maintenance. If your cat suddenly starts urinating outside the box despite your careful maintenance, you should immediately suspect a urinary tract problem and call your veterinarian.
To keep your cat happy, healthy and clean it is essential to properly groom your cat. By reading this section you will learn how and when to groom your cat and also what equipment to use. You will learn how to brush your cat, bath your cat, how to clean your cats ears and how to look after your cats teeth.
Brushing and combing your cat
Cats spend 10 percent of their waking hours grooming themselves by licking dirt and excess fur of their coat but this is not enough to properly keep them clean and some cats do not clean themselves properly. You should brush and comb your cat on a regular basis. Short-hair cats are much easier to groom than long-hair cats. If you are unsure of what your cat is, visit the breeds section. When you are grooming your cat you should be alert and checking for fleas, scars, wounds and lumps.
The first thing you need to know is the difference between a cat comb and a cat brush. A cat comb is used to remove excess hair, remove knots and to remove dirt. A cat brush is to fluff up the fur and make it smooth and look good. If you own long-hair cat I would recommend buying both a comb and a brush as you will learn later on, if you own a short-hair cat it is not as important but you can if you want.
You could alternatively choose to buy a cat grooming kit which includes a comb, brush and everything else you need. You can buy the right equipment from your local pet shop but you could also consider buying online. There are many different combs and brushes to choose from and all of them have their advantages and disadvantages. If you want to get the best results and not spend a fortune you should buy a wide toothed comb, a brush and a flea comb. This should all cost under $10 USD.
It is a waste of time brushing your cat with a normal comb/brush. The advantages of using a cat brush is that it shelters the natural body oils, the bristles gently remove tangles and after brushing your cat it will have a shiny, good looking and healthy coat. But most importantly it is designed to remove excess hair, then in future when your cat cleans itself it does not swallow as much hair, preventing it from having a hairball.
If you have a kitten, it should be brushed from an early age so it becomes accustomed to the process and doesn't find it a scary and distressing experience. It will enjoy the grooming procedure but most of all you will not have to train it later on in its life. If you have an adult cat that does not like to be brushed and finds the experience frightening, introduce grooming slowly and do not make the sessions more than five minutes. If this does not work you could try ending the grooming session with playtime so your cat will look forward to it each day. One of the most important things to remember is that a short session each day is better than a long session each week.
As I briefly mentioned before, short hair cats are easier to groom than long-hair cats, it is a bit more difficult and the process can take a bit longer. If you own a short-hair cat you should groom it on a weekly basis or every few days and it should take from 5 to 10 minutes. If you own a long-hair cat grooming should be done everyday or every two days and it should take about 10 to 20 minutes. By now you are probably thinking 'how can you brush a cat for 20 minutes'. The grooming process is not just brushing but is also cleaning nose and ears if necessary and sometimes brushing your cat's teeth. For more information about these, read on.
To groom your cat, follow these easy steps:
-Place your cat on a bench or table. It depends on what your cat is most comfortable with; some owners brush their cat on their laps.
-Gently brush from head to tale using short and gentle strokes with your comb to remove knots, do not pull hard otherwise it will hurt and distress your cat, making the experience unpleasant and enjoyable. For best results also brush under its neck and stomach. If you have a flea comb, brush again from head to tale.
-Use a brush to fluff up the fur, if you are unsure of what brush to use ask your local pet shop. A cat brush is good for your cat's appearance and health and can be brought from a number of different places.
Bathing your cat
It is not necessary to bath your cat unless it becomes very dirty. Most people who have prize-winning cats bath their cat on a regular basis. Many cats do not like water and find a bath a frightening and traumatic experience. If you ever need to bath your cat, the below information will tell you how. The first thing you need to do is to brush your cat to remove excess hair and dirt. Talk to your cat with relaxed voice to keep it as calm as possible and do no make quick movements. Have everything ready before you start which should consist of 4-6 towels, shampoo, a hair dryer and cotton balls. You can use special cat shampoo or you can use regular shampoo but it really doesn't make a difference.
Use cotton balls to protect water from getting into your cats ears. If your cat has smaller ears use only half or even a quarter. If you have a bathroom or laundry hose, use it because it makes it much easier. If you don't have a hose use a cup or plastic container. You should not wear good clothes because the chances are that you will end up as wet as your cat. Wash your cat in a bath or a laundry sink. Start by wetting it with warm water. Avoid wetting its eyes and ears as much as possible unless it particularly dirty.
Hold your cat firmly because it will try to escape and probably bite and scratch you. Once the cat is wet apply shampoo and gently massage. If your cat is really dirty you can shampoo twice. Rinse your cat from top to bottom and make sure you get all of the shampoo out. Use the towels to dry your cat as best as you can then finish the job off with a hairdryer.
Cleaning your cats ears
Cleaning your cat's ears should be a part of your grooming routine. To get rid of the dirt and wax, use a cotton swab but never go deeper than you can see because it can cause permanent damage to your cats hearing. It should be done every month.
Dental Care
Many people do not brush their cats teeth often enough, some have never done it. If your cat's teeth are not brushed, bacteria will build up and could result in loss of teeth. You should brush your cat's teeth every week. If you have a kitten you should start brushing when all of its 36 teeth have grown which is around 6 months of age. If you have an adult cat, introduce slowly and keep the sessions short.
You can buy special toothbrushes designed for cats but a child's toothbrush will be just as good, just make sure the bristles are soft so they do not cut the gums. Do not use normal toothpaste because it will cause digestive problems and make your cat sick. You can buy special cat toothpaste from your pet shop, vet or online.
To properly brush your cat's teeth start by gently brushing the outer surface of the teeth. Do not brush the inside of the teeth until your cat is used to the process. Brush in a circular motion from the bottom of the gum to the tips of the teeth. Some cats require professional cleaning when there is a severe build up of tartar. When brushing your cat's teeth note the condition of your cat's gums.
Consult your vet if the gums are swollen, if there is any bleeding, bad breath, drooling, dark spots, sores, refusal to open mouth or reluctance to eat. If your cat has any of these symptoms there is a chance that it has gum disease. Gum disease is common in cats and can be fatal unless treated. It begins with the build up of plaque and tartar which causes the roots to become infected. This can be prevented by regular brushing.
They say we are what we eat. This applies to your pet as much as it applies to yourself. A good diet means less health problems, less trips to the vet and lower veterinary bills. But how much thought have you given to what your cat should be eating to maintain optimum health? Ask yourself the following questions.
1) How many times a day do you feed your cat?
Since cats cannot be exercised like dogs can, the only way you can influence your cats weight is by controlling the amount and type of food he or she eats. If the cat is being fed individual meals several times daily, there is often a tendency by the owner to offer the daily supply of food on several occasions rather than divide up the daily feed into several meals. This can also occur with cats fed dry food ad lib. Cats usually regulate their food intake, but continual exposure to large quantities of food may lead to over-eating and subsequent obesity if too many calories are consumed. In short, both several individual meals a day and ad lib feeding are fine, it is the total amount offered per 24 hour period which is the important figure.
Kittens should be fed small meals at regular intervals due to their tiny stomachs. Four or five meals are recommended at eight weeks of age, decreasing to two at six months of age.
2) Is your cats diet manufactured specifically for cats or do you give human food?
Some cat owners like to spoil their cat by feeding them human food as the bulk of their diet. Others have tried feeding their cat regular catfood, but find their fussy cat will not touch it, and prefers to wait for the inevitable human food offering, which soon becomes the staple diet.
Is it really unhealthy to feed cats human food though? Of course it depends what food. Remember that cats are carnivores, and require a high proportion of meat in their diet. They simply cannot adapt to a low protein diet, and will lose bodyweight if deprived of it. In fact, as a species they are relatively unique... a deficiency of the amino acid, arginine, in a single meal can lead to symptoms of lethargy, hypersalivation and vocalisation. Arginine is required by the cat to produce urea, a waste product resulting from the breakdown of protein.
Another essential nutrient for the cat is the amino acid, taurine, which the cat cannot manufacture sufficiently by itself to meet its needs. The cat's diet must therefore contain taurine in sufficient quantities. If a deficiency develops there is a high risk of serious and irreversible damage to major organs such as the heart and the eye. Taurine is found almost entirely in meat, confirming the fact that the cat is a compulsory carnivore.
Another disease of nutritional origin is that caused by cats eating raw liver regularly, who can suffer from a condition called hypervitaminosis A. Cats suffering from this can present with signs of lethargy, unthriftiness, a stiff neck and other skeletal problems. To play it safe, do not feed your cat liver more than once a week.
Reputable cat foods are formulated after extensive trials by pet food companies to provide the mixture of protein, carbohydrate and fat that suits feline physiology best. It is easier, cheaper and possibly more healthy for your cat to be fed a reputable cat food diet, with occasional treats if desired (tuna, liver etc).
3) Which is better out of dry cat food or wet cat food?
Most vets recommend complete dry biscuit based cat food. This is because studies have shown that cats on dry food diets are less likely to suffer from dental disease than those on wet food from a tin or pouch. The physical motion of biting these biscuits helps prevent tartar from adhering to the surface of the tooth. However, even cats with no teeth can eat biscuit based food without a problem, as they just scoop up the biscuits with their tongue and swallow them whole. Another advantage of dry food is that it does not spoil as quickly which is useful for cats that are fed ad lib.
There are occasionally reasons why a wet food is preferable, as a method to increase the water consumption in a cat with a urinary problem such as cystitis.
4) Which is the best cat food to choose?
There are so many different brands of cat food on the market, the best one is basically a matter of opinion. Certainly palatability is a factor, there is no point in purchasing a particular food if your cat cannot stand it, although this is occasionally a necessity in cats requiring prescription diets. Rather than recommending you a specific brand, we suggest that you choose one which adheres to the criteria below.
Cat foods labeled as complete and balanced must meet standards established by the Association of American Feed Control Officials (AAFCO), either by meeting a nutrient profile or by passing a feeding trial. There are now two separate nutrient profiles for cats - one for growth (kittens) and one for maintenance (adults). Maximum levels of intake of some nutrients have been established for the first time because of the concern that overnutrition, rather than undernutrition, is a bigger problem with many pet foods today. The standards include recommendations on protein, fat, fat soluble vitamins, water soluble vitamins, and mineral content of foods. If you are prepared to get technical, you should choose a food that comes closest to AAFCO recommendations.
In summary, consider the following points:
Choose a food that suits your cats age. Most big pet food companies will have different foods for kittens vs adults. Cats with medical conditions may be recommended special prescription diets.
Choose a food that come closest to AAFCO recommendations.
The ingredients contains the truth about a particular food. Everything else is there only for marketing purposes.
There are no legal and scientific definitions for the terms "premium," "super premium," "quality," or "natural."
Use dry matter numbers to evaluate and compare foods.
The source of ingredients (e.g. animal vs vegetable) does not matter, except in the case of food allergies.
Avoid supplementation. All commercial cat foods have more than enough protein, fat, vitamins, and minerals. Feeding your cat a good food incorrectly can lead to significant problems.
5) My cat is overweight, but no matter how hard I try I cannot get him to lose weight. What can I do?
Your cat is almost certainly being fed too much. Below some common mistakes are listed. Have a good look at these and make sure none of them could apply to your cat.
Not following the guidelines on the packet when measuring a portion. Most cat foods will have a table on the packaging suggesting daily portions for cats of different weights. The weight of food suggested is per 24 hrs, not per portion! Use your kitchen weighing scales to measure out the portion until you are sure of the correct amount.
Using a complete dry diet as a replacement for regular biscuits, and mixing it with wet cat food. If it says complete, you should not mix it with anything or you will overfeed.
Offering inappropriate food that is high in fat, or cream/full fat milk to drink.
Several members of the household feeding the cat at different times, whenever the cat is meows for food.
Giving the cat regular treats in addition to its main meal.
The cat is getting fed by neighbors, who think they are being kind by feeding it and enjoy the attention it gives them.
The cat is scavenging food from outside sources, such as other peoples bins.
The cat is part of a multi-cat household and is stealing food from the other cat(s), or even the dog.
Keep an open mind. If there is a possibility that any of the above scenarios might be the case with your cat, investigate it. If you are still at a loss, consider starting a prescription diet (see below).
6) I have heard you can get special light diets, or prescription diets for fat cats. Do they really work?
Yes they do, if used properly. These types of cat food are available in complete wet (tinned or pouches) form or dry (biscuit) form, and are growing in popularity amongst conscientious pet owners. They are low in calories and high in fibre, and often contain high levels of L-carnitine. L-carnitine has been used to help with fat metabolism in other species and recent scientific work indicates that it helps reduce weight in overweight dogs and cats. The real benefit of these low calorie diets though is that because of its low calories, cats can still eat reasonable sized portions and therefore feel full. This means they are more content and less likely to beg and look for extra food.
These diets are perfectly healthy for normal sized cats to eat too, so if you have a multi cat household and it is unfeasible to separate the cats during feeding time, you can safely feed all of the cats the prescription diet together.
7) Where can I buy this low calorie food from?
Many of the big pet food companies are waking up to the problem of pet obesity, and adding light versions to their range. However, they are unlikely to be as effective as the traditional prescription diets that are on the market.
They are known as prescription diets, because they are a specialist food normally prescribed by a veterinarian. However, you do not need a prescription to buy the food as it is a general sales list product. These foods are rarely available in supermarkets as many supermarkets are keen to sell their own brand, or have deals with the big pet food manufacturers. Many owners but their prescription diet from their veterinary clinic for convenience, whilst others prefer to shop around to get the best price. Many online pharmacies and pet stores are now offering these prescription foods, but whilst they may appear cheaper online, watch out for delivery charges added on top.
Breed Standard And History Of White Persian Cats
Persian cats are one of the oldest breeds of cats known to man. Long hair and a snubby face that often leads to some health problems for the breed characterize them. The Persian cat breed is among the most widely recognized due to the characteristics that are present in this particular breed of cat.
There are many color variations of the breed as well as color pattern. There are also some variations of the facial features in some of the Persian cats that range from a snubby nose to a straighter nose. White Persian cats are among the most popular colors sought by buyers and pet seekers.
Background Of Persian Cats
This breed of cat originated in the Iranian plateaus bordering Mesopotamia. Some illustrations also connect the Persian cat with the ancient Pallas cat. An Italian by the name of Pietro Della Valle introduced the breed to European society. The first known written acknowledgement of the Persian cat was in the year 1871 in the annals of the Cat Fanciers Association. White Persian cats were already around during that time.
Standard of the Persian Cat
Persian cats usually come in a variety of colors such as white, blue, black and tortoiseshell. And are generally accepted in any color or any pattern marking as well. Silver, black and white Persian cats top the most sought after colors as pets while other colors are also sought after for show. White Persian cats and others with lighter coloration have a difficult time keeping themselves clean and may need their owner?s help in doing so. Regular bathing, conscientious drying and brushing are among the grooming chores that these longhaired cats need.
The temperament of Persian cats is basically similar to other cats. They are highly independent and need to go out once in a while. Despite their very refined appearance, Persians, especially silver or white Persian cats are very capable of taking care of themselves. They may look fragile but they are very hardy.
Persian cats are coveted because of their beautiful looks. The more popular cats are silver, black and white Persian cats. The coloring of the cats does not affect their temperament or their activity. There are some illnesses or sicknesses that are associated with Persian cats due mainly to their facial structure. Some breeders strive too much to get the blunt faced cats that some selective breeding has turned out deformities in the cats. These deformities contribute to difficulty of breathing and nasal problems.
About the Author:
Charlie Reese is a cat specialist and likes to chat about cats on a routine basis.
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